Featured Posts

My [12] thoughts on what it means to give at Christmas time ...My [12] thoughts on what it means to give at Christmas... No. 1 Give a smile : A cheerful look brings joy to the heart - Proverbs 15:30 Some people might say that Christmas is the most unhealthy time of the year, and not just because because of all...

Readmore

Nuts - an ancient super-health food: Eat a handful a dayNuts - an ancient super-health food: Eat a handful... After years of unfair persecution nuts are finally back on the healthy shopping list and not just as an occasional treat but as a daily prescription for good health. Most health authorities now recommend...

Readmore

New Zealand All Blacks Win the Rugby World Cup - New National Anthem - thank you ABs (and ACDC!)New Zealand All Blacks Win the Rugby World Cup - New... On the 23rd of October 2011, New Zealands national rugby team won the Rugby World Cup. Despite consistently being the worlds No. 1 side for decades, it took a supreme effort to get to the Final and once...

Readmore

Can I eat mussels if I have high cholesterol?Can I eat mussels if I have high cholesterol? The short answer is yes - you can eat mussels if you have high cholesterol. Mussels are low in kilojoules, cholesterol and fat. The little fat they do have is mostly healthy unsaturated fat with plenty...

Readmore

Kiwifruit – Super-fruit for the gutKiwifruit – Super-fruit for the gut My parents came to stay a few weeks ago, bearing bags of kiwifruit from their orchard. “We’ve got so much!” my mum exclaimed as she dumped three or four bulging bags in the front hall. “The fruit...

Readmore

  • Prev
  • Next

Memories and recollections of the Kumara and other traditional Maori food {part 3}

Posted on : 26-06-2009 | By : Cindy | In : Maori kai, Traditions, Vegetables

1

… Continued from part 1part 2. (last of series).te manawa

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rangiatea

“E kore au e ngaro

He kakano i ruia mai

i Rangiatea”

I will never be lost

The seed scattered across the Pacific

From my ancient home in Tahiti

(Old Maori saying)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Postscript:

Funny how things come round again. I was recently (2004) in Te Kuiti at Oparure Marae where I met whanau who, a few weeks before came upon and unearthed an old kumara pit with its cache of perfectly preserved kumara, big and seed size. The find also disclosed that the families who lived on that site moved out in the early 1950s, and surmised that the dad2abandoned kumara pit had remained untouched all that time. The tubers were covered in bracken fern and manuka brush and had remained untouched by moisture, sunlight or air. This information rang a bell for me. The next day, we shared our experiences with the students of the Raranga Diploma. The seeds were planted and germinated and I was handed a small collection to try out in my tiny Papakura garden. Yes, I still have seeds from that exchange.

Extraordinary!

Memories and recollections of the Kumara and other traditional Maori food {part 2}

Posted on : 25-06-2009 | By : Cindy | In : Maori kai, Traditions, Vegetables

1

kumara vegetable… continued from part 1

Heaps, heaps and heaps of kumara. Over four days, Rimaha worked single-handedly digging up about a half-acre of kumara.

A warm cloudy day without direct sunlight was preferred for sorting the piles of kumara spread around the excavations.

And there she sat, sorting and singing and telling stories about the changing seasons and the times to plant and harvest, the nights of the seasons, and the season announced by the pipiwharauroa. No activity of this kind was done without consultation with the phases of the moon. The land and the plants were fondled as though they were children.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Kumara

“E moko,

She said

“Come help me

Dig out our

Kumara”

Her wrinkled hands

Fondling

In the brown earth

Counting sorting

Kumara.

There she sat and smoked

One arm akimbo skirt tucked in

Gathering the first fruits

In the kits of Tane

Kumara.

“These we eat now

These for the tangi

These are seed …

And these, e Moko are your

Kumara

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Dug up, resigned now, kumara lay in heaps protected from the sun by their tendrils and bracken fern. I sat in the dust with Wairemana sorting and drying. She was selective about the weather because direct sunshine would blister the tender tubers. The kumara were separated into three separate heaps of large, medium, and the cut and small tubers. The damaged and the smallest were eaten immediately. No, you did not start by eating the big kumara straight away. They were set-aside for special occasions.

Wairemana showed me how to handle the kumara. I simply followed.

Ko tana ki au, “Me penei. Me penei, me pera. Kia ata haere. Kia ata ngawari to whawha i te kumara na te mea he tino ngaehe noa tona ahua. Kia tau tou rangimarie ki te kumara.”

“Be kind.” I didn’t understand.

I was shown how to carefully turn the tubers over, one by one so that any condensation on the underside would slowly seep away.

Instruction, when I need it, was never in the negative. “Me penei…” These had to be done at least three times to eliminate any residue before they were placed into large sacks for Rimaha to carry up a steep slope. This was necessary to ensure that when they were placed inside the kumara pit (rua kumara), moisture would not harm the rest of the cache.

The kumara pit was carefully planned and dug into the side of a steep slope on a site carefully selected for this purpose. The space was flattened out. Located some 200 yards up a steep slope, the pit was dug down into the clay soil some five feet deep tapering to the top opening and quite spacious at the bottom. The small opening at the top allowed access for a single person. For access, a short ladder made of a post with stepping notches was lowered into the pit. The inside of the pit was lined with bracken with an underlay of manuka brush to cushion the tubers but as well provided the necessary air conditions for their preservation. The lid covering the aperture at the top was made of two sheets of overlapping corrugated irons, which were also covered with layers of bracken and manuka brush. A shallow ditch was dug around the edges of the pit to drain away rainwater.

I helped Rimaha, where I could to carry the heavy sacks of kumara up the steep hill but it was my job to place each tuber individually and carefully one on top of the other. Yes, one by one.

When a cook up of kumara was needed, I was the one to go up the slippery slope, open the pit, fill a kit with kumara, close the pit up carefully, and come back down. Often I lost my footing and sent the kit with its contents scattered everywhere. I hated that job because most times it would be wet-cold.

I recall opening the pit and the outflow of air hitting my face – its acrid, dry smell, and the warmth which rushed out at me.

On the side of the steep hill, the pit faced the rising sun.

The design of the pit was an engineering feat, one which shows the design genius of our tipuna handed down over time. The inside of the pit, when fully closed up was airtight. This created a vacuum, which kept the precious tubers absolutely dry. Before the kumara were laid in their beds, a fire was lit inside the pit to kill off any fungal diseases, and the ashes became a part of the preservation. Then of course, there was the warmth in the ground captured in the pit when the sun came up over the ridge each morning.

The interior of the pit was also covered with layers of bracken. The pit sealed out the air, a way tested over a long time to ensure the preservation of the fragile tubers over winter.

Rimaha was a man of a few words, a very practical man, hard working, a striking figure anywhere.

“The big ones here and those smaller ones over to that side. These are the most important because they are next season’s seed,” he would say.

“That’s why we say the seeds are tapu. They need to be protected,” he emphasised.

And of course, the larger kumara were already tagged for the hui or tangi at the Roimata Marae, or simply to give away.

I watched. I listened and I followed.

Rimaha wasn’t so much into teaching, but rather he allowed me to see how it should be done correcting me only when it was necessary. A quiet man, a perfectionist, a man who watched that I followed instructions carefully. He watched over me as I placed the kumara tubers one layer upon another. When it came to the placement of the tubers, it had to be right or we could face long, tough winter months.

I often wondered in later years, when I had worked out the process used in the construction of the pit, how our tipuna knew about creating an airtight vacuum and using the warmth of the earth within the pit to preserve those precious tubers. Was it accidental? Serendipity? Did not the ancient Egyptians use the same principle in the crypts?

These are taonga in knowledge and skills handed down. Mai rano. He taonga tuku iho, as they say. The taonga of knowledge was safe with them and they passed it on to their moko pukenga to pass on.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Part 3, the last of this series by Haare Williams, on my next post

Memories and recollections of the Kumara and other traditional Maori food {part 1}

Posted on : 22-06-2009 | By : Cindy | In : Maori kai, Traditions, Vegetables

0

My father-in-law, Haare Williams (now in his 70′s),  grew up with his Maori grandparents, Rimaha and Wairemana, on the shores of Ohiwa Harbour near Whakatane, New Zealand. Here he recounts the food they ate, especially the kumara (please see my related post: “Kumara to KFC”). The back-breaking work, the use of the stars to guide planting and harvest times and the ingenious storage method – it’s a far cry from my quick drive to the vegetable shop to buy a few kumara for my roast beef!  Thank-you, Haare, for sharing your memories and treasured knowledge with us in this 3-part series.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Kumara planting“Ko te kumara i a Rangi

Ko Pekehawani ka noho i a Rehua

Ko Ruhiterangi ka tau kei raro

Te ngahuru tikotiko i a Uru

Ko Poutu te rangi te matahi o te tau

Te Putunga o te hinu e

Tama”

(Excerpt from Ori ori from Te Aitanga a Mahaki tribe)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Of all the crops at hand to us at Karaka, the most valued was kumara. You see, kumara has a long whakapapa and apart from the story of Poutini, the green eye of pounamu, and later the movements of whales, kumara is a part of the epic journey of Maori across the Pacific to Aotearoa. Acknowledged in songs and whakapapa, kumara is traced to Maui Wharekino and Pani their mating seed they begat the essence of kumara.

The arrival in Aotearoa of two migratory birds, the shining cuckoo with its distinctive call, was celebrated with songs, prayers and tears of joy. The other was the long tail cuckoo. They too paved a pathway to this land and back again, guided by instinct and the prevailing currents.

The sacred seeds after all, were borne here on the backs of two giant birds, nga Manunui a Ruakapanga, across Te Moananui-a-Kiwa from Parinhuitera.

Rimaha and Wairemana each year scanned the skies for the appearance Te Aotahi and Takurua (Canopus and Rigel), sent a prayer to Rehua (Antares) and his two wives, Pekehawani and Ruhiterangi, guardians for the seasons of planting and for the harvest. They offered thanks to these deities as kaitiaki of kumara.

The planting season was marked with rituals, which ushered in the calls of spring and planting. Rimaha and Wairemana followed closely the seasons of the moon and awaited and read the appearance of Matariki (Pleiades) and Puanga (Rigel) in the sky. Their appearance indicated the beginning of the season for planting. Planting and harvesting were determined by appearances of lunar measures, which they understood and applied knowledge honed over centuries of observation and practice by their tipuna.

Planting, cultivating, and preserving food was an art with Rimaha and Wairemana. That isn’t surprising given that they, and their hapu came through a time where mere survival was an imperative following the legislative taking of their Tuhoe and Te Whakatohea lands. These matters surfaced often, a link to land grievances and the economic devastation of Tuhoe and Te Whakatohea whanau and hapu. In that frame, kumara was also a symbol of survival.

Gardens. Lots and lots of gardens. Extensive gardens for just three people, two of them elderly and the third, a kid.

Wairemana sat in the dust moving around on her hands and knees from one spot to the next, working from dawn to dusk. They seemed to live for those gardens and their annual yields of kumara, potatoes, kamokamo, watermelons and rock melons, sugar cane, maize, onions and tobacco. Puha seed was scattered around the perimeter of the gardens amongst the kamokamo. There was even greater responsibility to ensure the preservation of mauri (the life essence) in all things and the food planted and harvested.

The mauri was embodied in the seeds and in places where food was obtained. In these, the mauri of the land must be protected from abuse or over use and was applied by them not only to kumara but all other food bearing resources. It was a natural way of life for them.

Wairemana would remind me, “Kaua e tukinotia te whenua.” Do not take the land and its natural gifts for granted.

In the case of kumara, the part that was eaten was accepted for the body (tinana), but the mauri, that is its spiritual substance (wairua) needed protection through karakia and by being mindful of its importance to life. With such a noble lineage, no wonder kumara had a life of its own.

Back breaking work. A shovel was modified into a heavy hoe with the blade bent, and used to break down clumpy, lumpy turf into fine malleable soil.

Weeds. Everywhere weeds. Wairemana was especially attentive to her patch of watermelons and rock melons. She tended the gardens well and occasionally I helped with watering the tender shoots. She sang lullabies and fondled the plants as friends.

We lived close to nature’s lushness with the bush behind us and the sea in front. To one side there were the streams and extensive swamps with their seasonal offerings of kopururpuru, eels, weka, raupo and flax. On the other side the stretches of mudflats in the harbour, a constant source for flounders, herrings and the muddy titiko (periwinkles). Besides it provisions of medicines, the bush at the back yielded timber, kiekie and dyes, and as well the delicious harore, a fungus which grew best on rotted logs, teure a very sweet pine-apple shaped fruit found in the centres of the kiekie. Then there was pikopiko, the delicious curly fern fronds. Berries as well …

Kei runga

Kei runga ko Ranginui

Kei raro ko Papatuanuku

Kei mua ko te moana

Kei muri ko te ngahere

Kei tena taha

Ko nga awaawa

Kei tera taha

Ko te puna wai

Ko nga repo

Kei konei

Ko nga momo oranga

Katoa

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Part 2 of this series by Haare, recounting early experiences with traditional Maori food is to follow on another post soon …

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Related:

Maori Dictionary Online
Kumara to KFC – How Maori eating habits have changed
Kaipara Kumara

My nanna’s recipe for homemade Rewena (Maori) bread

Posted on : 07-05-2009 | By : Cindy | In : Maori kai, My idiot-proof recipes

11

Rewena Bread

2 c flour
1 tsp sugar
3 slices potato

Boil potato slices in 1 cup water to mashing consistency. Cool and when luke warm mix all ingredients to a firm texture. Cover and let rise.

Take 1 tablespoon of the dough and put into a large Agee jar. Feed one day with ½ cup warm potato water and next day with 1 teaspoon sugar.

5 cups flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda
Mix flour, salt and soda. Pour in rewena (keep a bit for next time) and mix. Add more water if necessary. Knead 10 mins.
Put in greased dish and let rise to double.
Bake at 150-180C for 1 hour.

For more on making Rewena see:


My rewena trial and error tryout
[disaster!]

Results of my attempts to make a nutritious rewena bread

Curious Kai

Everything2

..